It Should Be Called "Liz in País Vasco"

I've been here in Bilbao for almost 2 months now, and I've been realizing more and more every day that País Vasco really is not Spain. Or at least the Spain that I experienced before.

 This part of Spain isn't what you would think of when you think of Spain. It rains a lot, and there's no flamenco in the streets. You don't eat tapas here, you eat pintxos. You don't drink sangria, you drink txakoli. The traditions are very different from the rest of Spin.

Many people (including myself, before I came to Bilbao), don't know much about the history of this region of Spain. It's very political, and if you want a detailed explanation, you can click  here and check out this video about the Basque country. (Side note-that video makes it look super violent and controversial here. Sure, sometime I see the occasional protest, but I feel as safe here as I do anywhere.)

Basically, the Basque people want to be separate from Spain for a variety of reasons. Some may say they have good reason, for example, the Basques were around before many other people groups in the Iberian peninsula. Many Basques have a very strong sense of pride and this is obvious everywhere in País Vasco, or Euskal Herria.

These are some of the biggest differences I have noticed about the Basque Country vs. Spain

1. The language

    There are a few regional dialects in Spain. For example, they speak Gallego in Galicia, and Catalá in Catalunya. However, if you speak Castellano (the Spanish we learn in school), you are still able to pick up on some of what is being said in Galicia and Catalunya.

But if you think you can pick up Euskera by knowing Castellano, you are dead wrong. Euskera, the language spoken in País Vasco, is one of the oldest languages in the world. It's pre-Romanic, and cannot be linked to any other language, which gives it a very unique sound. This is an example of someone speaking Euskera.

  I don't hear it too much in Bilbao (my school teaches in Castellano), but travel to any small pueblo and you will hear it in abundance. However, I have picked up a few words, like "kaixo"-hello (pronounced kai-show) and "eskerrik asko"-thank you, and "agur"-goodbye.

During orientation, they gave part of our welcome in Euskera. It's interesting because the pronunciation is generally the same as Castellano, but it's like hearing Spanish and not being able to understand a word.

2. Lack of Spanish Flags

    I think there may be one Spanish flag in all of Bilbao, and it's on a government building. It's much more common to see the ikurrina on balconies, in stores, and on buildings.

In the same vein, I never see anyone wearing jerseys from Spain's national football team. Even though they won the World Cup. It's all about Athletic Bilbao, who only recruits Basque players.

3. Basque-isized Spelling

    Calimocho-1/2 red wine mixed with 1/2 Coke. In Basque-Kalimotxo

    Chorizo- type of sausage. In Basque-Txorizo

    Chocolate-same as in English. In Basque-Txokolate

Pronounced the same, but spelled totally differently.

It's interesting because when you go to the grocery store, all the labels are in Castellano and Euskera. Talk about a niche. 

4. Anti-Spain/Pro-Basque country displays

    Many people know that País Vasco has it's own "terrorist" group, ETA. They haven't been as active since the bombing of the Madrid airport, and have recently declared a cease-fire. Many of ETA members have been arrested, and are jailed in Madrid, Paris, and other locations around Spain.

Commonly seen as a flag

Graffiti in Gernika

This flag is common throughout País Vasco. It means that they want the Basque prisoners returned to País Vasco instead of being jailed in other cities/countries.

You also can see a lot of graffiti similar to that around País Vasco.

5. Government

    While País Vasco is not legally recognized as it's own country, they do get some special treatment. They have their own police force, and can make their own laws. This is the reason that most schools in País Vasco teach in Euskera. 15 years ago, the Basque government mandated that all teachers needed to learn Euskera. Since many teachers didn't know Basque because of Franco's oppression during the Spanish Civil War, it was a huge deal. 

These days, most kids in País Vasco speak Castellano, Euskera, and either English or French.

Another side note: most cities/towns in País Vasco have Castellano names, and Basque names/spellings.

For example:

San Sebastián-Donostia

Bilbao-Bilbo

Guernica-Gernika

I'm not sure when or why some towns are called by which name. You often hear people refer to San Sebastián as Donostia, but you rarely hear Bilbao called Bilbo.

Delicious pintxos in Donostia

So these are just some of the basic examples of the differences between País Vasco and the rest of Spain. I am definitely not an expert on Basque culture, these are just some observances I have noticed. Any questions, just ask me. Or just come visit!

Originally published 11.22.10